FAQ

We suggest your filter system run 6-8 hours per day. When water temperatures start to climb above 80 degrees then run your system 8-12 hours per day.

Balanced water is happy water. When you water chemistry is not balanced, it will affect the operation of your pool, the condition of your equipment and surface and the swimming experience for your bathers. If the water is not balanced, it can lead to a lot of issues. Balanced water can protect the pool surface and pool equipment and provide a comfortable swimming environment for bathers.

• High pH: Scaling Water which causes clogged filters, clogged heater elements, reduced circulation, cloudy water, metal staining; Chlorine inefficiency; Eye/Skin Irritation

• Low pH: Corrosive Water which causes etching of pool/spa surface, corrosion of metals, staining of surface walls; Wrinkles in Vinyl Liners; Eye/Skin Irritation

• High Alkalinity: pH Lock – cloudy water, rough pool/spa surfaces, clogged filters, clogged heater elements, reduced circulation

• Low Alkalinity: pH bounce – etching of pool/spa surface, staining of surface walls, heater failure

• High Calcium Hardness: Scaling Water which causes rough pool/spa surfaces, clogged filters, cloudy water, clogged heater elements, reduced circulation, eye/skin irritation.

• Low Calcium Hardness: Corrosive Water – etching of pool/spa surfaces, heater failure. Water becomes aggressive seeking calcium from other sources including through the surface of the pool/spa.

• High Cyanuric Acid: Cloudy water, Affects alkalinity readings

• Low Cyanuric Acid: Cannot maintain a sanitizer effectively

My child is allergic to chlorine so we have a salt water pool. We have all heard it. But, a saltwater pool still has chlorine. The chlorine is generated on-site through the salt generation system instead of being added in its true chlorine form. The pool salt is added to the pool and then the saltwater flows through the salt system where electrolysis converts that salt (sodium chloride) into chlorine. That chlorine is used to sanitize and oxidize your pool water and later converts back to salt.

Chlorine levels have guidelines per state. You should check with your state bathing code to see what permissible levels are. Residential pools recommend a level between 1.0-4.0 ppm. Chlorine does not start “bleaching” swimsuits until higher levels upwards of 30-40 ppm. And chlorine does not turn your hair green! When you bleach things, you whiten them. If you are seeing “green” hair, it is minerals in your water that is being deposited onto people’s hair.

Algae need nutrients, sunlight and a place to grow. The best way to prevent algae is to maintain a proper sanitizer level and brush. Algae needs to have something to cling onto and grow. If you are consistently brushing, it will help prevent it from getting n those crevices and areas of poor circulation. Green algae is the most common and tends to make its presence known when we get a few days of high heat. Black algae shows up in areas of poor circulation like deep end corner, step corners and behind ladders. Yellow algae is a bit stubborn and resistant to chlorine. If you get yellow algae, be sure to follow manufacturer’s directions on the yellow algae product. And remember, algae can be transferred from pool to pool. If you are vacationing, make sure to clean your swimsuits well before taking them home.

Maintaining a proper sanitizer level, and showering before entering the pool, are the best ways to help prevent developing a recreational water illness (RWI). Not all organisms are easily controlled by chlorine, so it is important to encourage those who have had diarrhea to not use the pool for two weeks. Those that can be controlled by chlorine require time for it to take effect. The CDC has found that proper chlorine levels can kill most organisms that cause RWIs within minutes. However, it takes longer to kill some germs such as Cryptosporidium.

When you are at an indoor facility and you smell the chlorine, the inclination is to think the chlorine is too high. But, what you actually smell are the nitrates, sulfates and bather waste that irritate eyes and the respiratory system as a result of combined chlorine. In this case, there is not enough chlorine. This is when breakpoint superchlorination needs to be performed.

When there is a fecal accident in the pool, you need to take it seriously. You want to clear the pool of users. Then, remove the fecal release with a skimmer net, bucket or some other carrying vessel. Put the object you used to remove the fecal release in the pool. Then, you want to superchlorinate the pool according to CDC guidelines.

Generally it is safe to use your pool after chemicals have dispersed throughout the pool. Industry standards recommend one turnover which varies by state for commercial pools, usually between 6-8 hours. That is generally why chemical adjustments are typically done at night. Residential pools are between 8-12 hours.

It is not recommended to store chemicals on your property from year to year to use in the next season. Chemicals do expire, and lose their potency. In addition, you need to be concerned about properly chemical storage and protecting people from possible chemical exposure. If you intend to disposes of chemicals, do not dispose of chemicals in the household trash or down any drains or toilets. You can ask your pool professional to remove and properly dispose of any leftover chemicals, as well as purchase new ones at the next season’s start.

Evaporation in pools is a normal occurrence. It is typical to lose up to ½” of water a day from evaporation. If you think you have a leak, look for signs including overgrown patches of grass, multiple water stain level lines, bubbles from your returns, closed valves, missing or warped gaskets and more. You can perform a basic bucket test to see if you have a leak. Place a five gallon bucket on the second pool step and fill it to match the water level of the pool and leave it in place for 2-3 days. Be aware of that water will be lost from evaporation and gained from rain water but this will occur in both your pool and the bucket. Do not backwash during this time. If the pool level drops more than the bucket, then you have a leak and it is recommended to have leak detection performed.

If you have an important event coming up and you plan to use your pool for this function you should be testing and preparing the pool weeks in advance. It is certainly understandable that your water can suddenly take a turn for the worse 24 hours before the party, but more commonly the pool is not currently balanced or clear, or requires extensive repairs. Leaving your pool to the last minute is a big mistake. If your pool is currently requiring repair then do not book a party until after it is fixed. If you want to have a pool party first thing in the year plan to open your pool and begin to balance the water a minimum of two weeks before the event. This will give you ample time to deal with any potential repairs that may have come up from a long winter season. If you suspect you will need a service technician be sure to call as early in the season as possible to schedule an appointment. During peak periods many pool professionals will be working sun up, to sun down, every day so you can end up waiting if you are too far down on the list.

It is not scientifically possible to tell whether pool or spa water is balanced by eye. Our eyes are useful for all kinds of great stuff like looking at loved ones, or swimming pools, but as far as advanced water chemistry analysis goes the human eye leaves much to be desired. The lack of understanding of proper water chemistry values is the number one cause of premature swimming pool component failure. While it is possible that you have been lucky enough to own a pool for 10 years without balancing your water properly, adopting this attitude towards water chemistry is going to cost you one day. It might cost you a new liner 5 years early, or it might cost you a bacterial infection, but rest assured if you rely on visual inspection of your pool and spa water you are going to have a bad time. At the very least you need to test the water for total alkalinity, calcium hardness and pH in addition to the sanitizer levels. To do this you will need a reliable pool test kit.

The term “shock” is used in the pool industry as both a noun and a verb. When you want to buy “shock”, it is describing the sanitizer you use. This includes calcium hypochlorite, lithium hypochlorite and sodium hypochlorite. Pool stores will generally sell a small package of “shock” which is typically calcium hypochlorite flakes. When you need to “shock” the pool, you are raising your sanitizer level to 10 ppm. Whatever type of sanitizer you are using be sure to follow chemical precautions and wear your personal protective equipment (PPE) including gloves, goggles and chemical masks. If you are going to shock, always add the chemical to the water and not the water to the chemical. Also, be aware that calcium generates a lot of heat when diluted. As a rule of thumb, it s recommended to shock pools at least once a week to oxidize bather waste, kill off any bacteria that may be growing and maintain your sanitizer level.

Absolutely! Hiring a qualified pool operator can reduce the stress of making sure your pool is safe and properly balanced. A pool professional can also perform routine inspections on your pool and pool equipment to catch potential hazards and breakdowns that may cost you lots of money in the long run. Hiring a professional to take care of your pool places the responsibility on them to properly maintain and service your pool in a safe manner. Storing chemicals around your house can potentially cause unsafe living conditions such as, potential fires, exposure to hazardous gases and chemicals. Let a pool professional store the chemicals and take on the risk of handling the chemicals.